🔗 Share this article

When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary achievement.